The Offical Anglo Indian Blog Page

September 3, 2009

Book Review – Mrs D’Silva’s Detective Instincts and The Shaitan of Calcutta

Filed under: Present State of Community — Sean Auckland @ 11:06 pm

By:  Glen Peters

A super enjoyable read. Filled with nostalgia for those Anglo-Indian’s who loved to travel on trains, manually drawn rickshaws, and over-burdened trams. Reminiscent of “old Calcutta”. The author, Glen Peters is an Anglo-Indian, born in Allahabad and immigrated to the United Kingdom in the 1960’s. He spent his childhood in a Railway colony close to Calcutta. His recollections of the places, sights, sounds and smells bring the City to life in the telling of this story. Joan D’Silva is a young widow, she has a 10 year-old son Errol, and is the main provider for her small family. Joan lives in Calcutta, and teaches at Don Bosco’s Catholic school. The story begins with an enjoyable picnic at the shrine of Our Lady by the Hooghly near Bandle. Many of us will happily recall our Anglo-Indian picnics – rowdy, social, the singalongs, and of course the delicious food. This is the background for the horrific find made by Errol. It is the body of a young woman lying by the river bank. The victim is identified as Agnes Lal a former pupil at Don Bosco’s. She was married to Xavier Lal, a much older very unpleasant individual. The marriage had been arranged by the Nuns at Don Bosco’s, who were ignorant to the fact that Lal was homosexual. Agnes’s 2 devoted and concerned friends Philomena Thomas and Anil Sen ask Joan to help find out what happened to their friend. In the interim however, Thomas James, GKW’s factory manager is murdered during a riot and the police arrest Anil Sen and extract a signed confession from him to the crime. Joan and Philip, her close friend get involved in the investigation, while Dutta, (the culprit behind the name “shaitan”,) encourages his followers to create havoc in Calcutta. Dutta is the self-proclaimed leader of the Workers’ Revolutionary Movement. Glen Peters spins an artful tale. Enjoyment on every page, as you read about the social gatherings, the many delectable foods, the servants interchanging pleasantries with their employers. Close your eyes and your are “there”. Do not be fooled, however, because below the surface the “real Calcutta” breaks through. Overpowering with murder, thievery, prostitution, police brutality and the unending, horrendous poverty all assail the senses. The great divide of the Indian class system becomes too great for the reader to comprehend at times. Memorable individuals portraying their intelligence, and weaknesses. I loved the “believableness” in the characters. And, if you have forgotten your Anglo-Indian words, there is a glossary at the back. There are some terrific recipes on the front and back covers of the book. I must admit I tried the mouth-watering Lucknow Biryani. Mrs. D’Silva is certainly a memorable character and I personally hope that Glen Peters will continue with her in books to come. This is an India I recall from my childhood and it was wonderful to return there.

Contributed by Lynette (Lynne) Rebeiro

September 2, 2009

Yesterday once more at Trincas

Filed under: Anglo Fun — Sean Auckland @ 8:22 pm

In its 50th year, we revisit this Kolkata institution with Usha Uthup, who found flame here

Almost providentially, the sound system at Trincas starts playing Yesterday as Usha Uthup walks in. Today, though, all her troubles seem here to stay. She is running an hour late for all her appointments; the traffic has unnerved her further and her mobile phone won’t stop ringing. “Why can’t I be left alone?” she bristles under her breath.

It’s a question that is easier asked than answered. Everybody wants a piece of Uthup—arguably Indian’s pioneering pop singer, whose career in popdom and Bollywood playback now spans exactly 40 years; and Kolkata’s claim on her was reiterated almost physically by Uthup herself when she publicly started wearing a jumbo bindi styled on the initial letter of Kolkata’s Bengali spelling.

Old world: (above) Uthup met her husband for the first time at Trincas; and the restaurant in the mid-1970s when film stars used to frequent it. Indranil Bhoumik / Mint

Old world: (above) Uthup met her husband for the first time at Trincas; and the restaurant in the mid-1970s when film stars used to frequent it. Indranil Bhoumik / Mint

During lunch hour, Trincas is only half full. The place where Uthup first made her mark as a “nightclub singer”—a title she is proud to claim—visibly eases the tension in her as she settles down with a coffee, drinking purposefully from the plate. “This is distinctly Trincas, click this!” she urges the photographer between sips. “Trincas taught me to hurry,” she says—one of the many lessons learnt there.

There are Park Street old-timers who maintain that Trincas existed as an unassuming corner deli before the 50 years that the restaurant is currently commemorating. But all agree that it is only in these five decades that Trincas—under the stewardship of two friends, Ellis Joshua and Om Prakash Puri (the Puris continue to run it)—became the original home of live pop music in India, only to fall from grace when the Naxalite movement, the exodus of corporate houses and the Anglo-Indian community from the city, a higher entertainment tax regime and changing cultural morality teamed up to dent its fortunes. “But we never stopped having live music here,” says Shashi Puri who, along with her husband Deepak and son Anand, runs Trincas these days. “Not even for a single day over all these years,” she reiterates.

“Molly was a black beauty from the Middle-East”, J.L. Wadehra, the 69-year-old general manager of Trincas, muses. “And when she sang, there used to be a queue outside the restaurant.” Since 1961, when Molly became Trincas’ first pop performer and its first star, the restaurant has seen a long list of bands and performers stopping by—somebody such as Biddu Appaiah, before he and Carl Douglas became famous with the international smash hitKung Fu Fighting and much before Disco Deewane and Made In Indiahappened, even taking a cut on his professional fee to perform seven-eight months at Trincas, according to Wadehra. “Some years back, he came back with a troupe from the UK to film at Trincas, where he had started his career with the band Trojans and later as the Lone Trojan,” recalls Wadehra.

Savages, Flintstones, Checkered Tricycle—a band that had as drummer Indian rock music veteran Nondon Bagchi—Beat Four, Benny Rozario, Toto Wallang, Eve, Jenny, Linda and Flora—they have all performed at Trincas, as has a band called The Urge, which had in its ranks a young Goutam Chattopadhyay, who later on went on to be widely acknowledged as having pioneered the concept of Bengali bands singing their originals, with his own Mohiner Ghoraguli (Mohin’s Horses).

While other Park Street restaurants had musicians such as Louis Banks, Pam Crain and Lou Majaw performing jazz, soul and rock, pop music was the reason Kolkata’s party set thronged Trincas. “It was the era of great pop music and I remember being there at Trincas as a five-year-old as my father performed Tom Jones and Engelbert Humperdinck. And of course, I remember the blow accordion that uncle Joshua had gifted me there,” remembers Toto Wallang’s son Rudy, a guitarist and founder of blues band Soulmate.

It wasn’t easy to break out of the Trincas fold: Over the years, only one singer, Jenny, got “stolen” from the restaurant by The Oberoi Grand, says Puri. Neither was it easy to break into, says Sanjay Mishra, the Kolkata-born guitarist who moved to the US and, among other albums, recorded the critically acclaimed Blue Incantation album with the legendary Grateful Dead frontman, the late Jerry Garcia. “Back in the mid-’70s, our band Mahamaya was mostly rejected at Trincas and it was difficult to get past the Anglo-Indian mafia there. Mr Joshua was the godfather,” Mishra says, laughing.

On 1 October 1969, some of the stereotypes surrounding female nightclub singers in India were shattered at Trincas. That is when a young Usha Iyer (Uthup’s maiden name) took the spotlight at the crowded restaurant, wearing a sari and flowers in her hair and singing Little Willie John’s Fever. “There I was in a cheap cotton sari and not in a gown. I wasn’t fair-skinned too, neither did I have blonde hair. After I took over at Trincas, there were more Bengali families coming, possibly because the women found it safer with me around,” says Uthup.

But in those days, a lady singer in a bar had to get a permit from Lalbazar, the police headquarters, with strict guidelines forbidding interaction with guests or soliciting. “The only person I solicited in Trincas, I went on to marry,” Uthup says, recalling her first meeting with Jani, a tea industry professional. “After my first performance, he came up to me and said in a statesman-like voice, ‘You were good tonight’. I was like ‘Oi saala, this is good’ and fell head over heels in love. He stopped coming for my shows after we got married,” she says. The familiar roar of laughter follows.

Uthup went on to do the playback for some of Bollywood’s pop hits in films such as Shaan, Shalimar, Disco Dancer, Hare Rama Hare Krishna, right up to recent releases such as Tashan and Joggers’ Park.

It all comes back to Trincas. “I had a strong bass voice and was an oddity among female singers. But Trincas accepted me whole-heartedly. It’s hallowed ground for me,” she says as younger waiters hang around her table in reverential attention, not oblivious to Uthup’s 40-year association.

But it isn’t so for everyone. No longer, at any rate. A city musician who had performed there some time back complains of an indifferent and unappreciative audience. Yet another musician talks about the constant pressure to pamper the audience with whatever’s-on-TV kind of music, even the commercial Bollywood variety.

“But Trincas has always been with the times,” reasons Nigel Gomes, bandleader of Sweet Agitation, the in-house outfit of Anglo-Indian musicians which has been a regular at Trincas for 25 years. The band’s set list says it: Alan Parsons Project, Van Halen and Bheegi Bheegi and Pehli Nazaar, all together in a marketable mix. “Our music too is in the zone. We play for the audience,” says Gomes.

Admittedly, much has changed. The Anglo-Indians, Jews, Europeans, Armenians and expats who once patronized the place have been replaced by a different set of people with a vastly different ear for music. Puri shows us old photographs of actors Dilip Kumar and Saira Banu at Trincas, and talks about Raj Kapoor and Dev Anand visiting, Vishu Mohan Wadehra, who has worked at Trincas for 40 years and is proud to have been in the frame in Satyajit Ray’s Pikoo when the film-maker shot at the restaurant, points to the window table Amitabh Bachchan used to occupy during his early days in Kolkata, before he made it big in Hindi films. Two men wearing T-shirts of a mobile telephone company occupy the table now.

The photographs also tell another story. The wide arches that once dominated the hall have been replaced by a loudly painted low ceiling. The round comfortable chairs have made way for wrought iron ones; ordinary white tiles adorn the floor where once there were carpets.

Yet, at Trincas, where the music never stopped, the photographs throw up an important element that remains unchanged: The stage continues to be where it was.

Source – http://www.livemint.com/2009/08/21222736/Yesterday-once-more-at-Trincas.html?pg=2

September 1, 2009

Train of thought

Filed under: Anglo Indians Defined — Sean Auckland @ 11:05 pm

TRACKING TIME: Royapuram Railway Station Photo: The Hindu Archives

TRACKING TIME: Royapuram Railway Station Photo: The Hindu Archives

Announcements about railway vacancies appeared frequently in The Mail, an evening newspaper published in Madras and now defunct. If there were ten posts to be filled, seven would be reserved for Anglo-Indians. The Anglos justified the trust reposed in their ability. The Madras Presidency especially had many Anglo-Indian drivers who stayed at their posts in times of trouble, with scant regard for their own safety. In 1946, when I joined the Madras and South Mahratta (MSM) Railways as an ‘A’ Grade Apprentice, an engine driver named Carr made headlines for his selflessness.

When Carr pulled the W-class engine Ashoka out of the Basin Bridge loco shed, he was his usual cheerful self. Powering the Calcutta Mail, Ashoka took the eastern route. As the Mail was not booked to stop at Ongole, Carr had to read the signal, take the appropriate line and keep driving. But the fast-moving Mail came to an ear-splitting halt – but not before ramming a stationary goods train. The signaller had lowered the loop line (where the goods train stood) instead of the main line!

If not for Carr’s last-ditch effort to save passengers’ lives, the accident would have gone down as one of the worst in Railway history. Moments before the collision, he hollered to his first fireman Magee to jump to safety. As he did as he was told, Magee lived to tell the tale. Buried neck-deep in coal, the second fireman also survived. At the wheel till the last moment, Carr received the full weight of the engine on his stomach.

When top MSM officials, accompanied by a big entourage, reached the accident site, Carr was in the throes of death. As he could not be extricated from the mangled mess, Carr watched his wife and children tearfully kiss him goodbye.

Another fateful accident in Madras Presidency forced the authorities to script a monumental law that is still in currency. It occurred in 1901 and involved the Postal Express, a passenger train with two of its bogies carrying postal material. The Express left Madras for Poona (via Andhra) with a driver and two firemen who shared a surname – MacFarlene. Not a coincidence, the driver was the father and the other two, his sons. Heavy rains on the Cuddapah-Guntakal line made the journey highly precarious and the train was trotting at five miles an hour. At Mangapatnam, the station master gave the all clear, but advised the driver (Johnson MacFarlene) to travel dead slow and stop if he was not sure of what lay ahead. But the danger ahead was more than the driver’s prudence can handle — a bridge running over a water body had got washed away and MacFarlene and his two sons met a watery grave. Following this accident, a law was passed to prevent close kin working together on the same train.

Life on a steam loco’s engine cabin was far from rosy. Forget the life-threatening situations along the way, the daily routine alone was a great trial of body and spirit. To keep the train going, the team had to engage in hard manual labour for long hours. The firemen had to constantly shovel coal into the firebox, which, at 180 degrees Fahrenheit, was an inferno.

To alleviate the hardship, Anglo-Indian railwaymen made up jokes that were a common stress-buster for employees of all the private railways across the Madras Presidency — the MSM, headquartered at Royapuram; the South Indian Railways (SIR), headquartered at Egmore; the Mysore State Railways and the Nizam State Railways (these railways were merged to form the Southern Railways in 1951).

While the Anglo-Indian was essentially a happy-go-lucky soul, he took his role as a railwayman seriously. Being in the Railways was a matter of pride. This attitude was best reflected in the way Anglo-Indian workers spruced up the locomotives. Some bought Brasso out of their pocket to burnish the engines. These inanimate machines were treated like royalty.

I fell in love with the XB224-class Queen Mary, when I first saw her at the Basin Bridge loco shed. When I first worked the locomotive, my joy knew no bounds. The Queen Mary came in 1927 to serve India for 20 years, but was in service for 50 years. In 1978, three engineers came from Britain to take her back to her homeland. The Queen belonged here. And she was dear to our hearts. When she left, I cried like a baby.

As told to PRINCE FREDERICK

NOEL ANTHONY NETO. Born in 1927, Noel (‘Bully’ to his friends) was a Superfast Special ‘A’ Grade Driver. His career began in 1946, at the Royapuram-based Madras & South Mahratta Railways (MSM) as an ‘A’ Grade Apprentice. After MSM merged into Southern Railways, he rose to the highest position an engine driver can aspire to. He has had the honour of working the historic locomotive Queen Mary on numerous occasions.

I REMEMBER

When an Anglo-Indian official questioned a ticket collector caught taking a bribe, the latter lost the ability to frame sentences. This is all he managed to say: “Please be kind to me, sir! I am a child of many fathers!”

RECALL

For the Anglo-Indians, being in the Railways was a matter of pride. Some bought Brasso out of their pocket to burnish the engines.

Source – http://beta.thehindu.com/life-and-style/society/article8888.ece

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